On Sunday we said farewell to Bob, then Dave and I walked past St. Stephan’s church and the Opera House on the way to our hostel. We stayed in a 8-bed dorm in Carpe Diem Vitae aka Vitae, not Carpe Diem, which is the shitty sister hostel. Vitae is on the 5th floor of an apartment building with an interior walkway. Many apartment buildings in Budapest are designed this way.
After checking in we headed back out. We ran into Judah Fest, a Jewish festival along Kazinczy street, which is also a bar street. The festival was like any other with food, activities, and women selling vintage and handmade jewelry. There were Jewish organizations trying to sign people up, and loud Jewish music playing. We stopped and ate a bean dish and then hummus.
We continued down the street out of the festival to Szimpla Kert, the famous garden eclectic bar, which is also a farmers market on Sunday’s. We were too full to eat more real food so we bought a kilo of cherries and took a seat. The cherries were really soft but not overripe, which we’d never had before. We chatted with a few German girls who are studying abroad in Budapest.
We went to the Great Synagogue, the biggest synagogue in Europe. The bema is magnificent with a gold facade and a colorful ceiling. I was given paper towel to cover my shoulders and Dave was given a yamaka. Behind the synagogue is a gravesite for Jewish heros.
We walked towards downtown and stopped at Blue Bird coffee. We then went to Erzsebet park and sat on the ledge of the public pool. The pool is only used for dipping your feet and it’s crowded all times of the day. People bring beers during the day and at night all liquor can be found.
In the middle of the park there’s a few outdoor bars, street food, and a giant Ferris wheel. There was a stage set-up with a band playing, along with men cooking massive skillets of sausages and other Hungarian foods.
We kept walking and ran into a used book market in a large square. We had a snack at Anna Cafe on a busy tourist shopping street for the people watching. For dinner we went to Kadarka Wine Bar on Kiraly street. I was being incredibly indecisive with both wine and food and the waiter was being a gem, except for when we asked him what food is best and he suggested the burger for Dave and a salad for me.
After dinner we went to Retox, our sister hostel with a bar. Our entire hostel was there as well. The crowd was young, and the bar was a dump, but the space was big, the drinks cheap, and the people nice.
In the morning we went to breakfast at the elegant New York Cafe commissioned by New York Insurance Company New York Palace.
We walked through the big City park, past numerous playgrounds and a kids soccer field with mini bleachers. We went to Szechenyi thermal bathhouse, the biggest one which sits on the edge of the park. The bathhouse has three outdoor pools and more than fifteen inside ranging in temperatures, along with saunas, etc. Some of the saunas reach as high as 70 Celsius which is just mad. The interior thermal pools smell like sulfur and hot pee but that’s just the natural hot spring smell. The best pool was the medicinal one. The temperature wasn’t too hot or too cold and the water felt like silk.
We walked past the zoo, Heroes square, through town and went to Konyha for lunch, a restaurant we had past the day before that had cool sliding windows. We finally tried one of the traditional creams. Every restaurant in Budapest serves veggie and meat creams; a sort of pâté. My fear of them is the amount of mayo but this one only had spinach and feta. We also got fresh fruity lemonade, another thing all restaurants serve.
We walked down to the waterfront, past our Viking cruise ship which was still there, to the Jewish shoes. The shoes represent the Jewish men and women who were brought to the riverbank and then shot from behind.
Parliament is right across the road but unfortunately it was closed. We never did get a chance to go inside. We walked back to the social park downtown, and had drinks at Drk Dorko, one of the outdoor bars.
On our walk back home we ran into Gozsdu Udvar, a long pedestrian alley packed with restaurants and bars. In the middle of the alley you can go up or down in the opposite direction hitting more restaurants and a street food outdoor area. The space is awesome and we couldn’t believe we didn’t know it existed. We weren’t hungry for a real meal so we grabbed Pad Thai Wok 2 Go.
Later on we went to Szimpla Kert to check out the night scene there. The bar was great; there were all different types of people all ages. We ordered wine from the wine bar, then beer from the beer bar, and a grapefruit shisha from the shisha bar. It came with a grapefruit head with glow sticks inside the vase.
In the morning we went to Kozpont (across from Konyha) for coffee and sandwiches. It was 10am on a weekday and the local girls next to us were drinking beer. After getting our caffeine fix we walked across Erzsebet bridge and trekked up to the Citadel. You go there mostly for the panoramic views of the city. We came back across on the green bridge farther down the river. When you look back towards the Citadel from this bridge you can see there is a church inside the mountain.
We walked into Central Market and bought the most amazing sweet cherry tomatoes.
Lunch was at Trattoria Barca Bianca for the pizza, which we had smelled our first day. On the way home I attempted to shop but all the clothes (that weren’t in American stores) were trashy. I ran back to the hostel and missed getting caught in a crazy hail storm by a few minutes.
We had beers and sandwiches at Farm, then went to Exit Point to play an escape game. We did Wonderland and couldn’t get out in the end. We made it into the second room but most of the clues were impossible to figure out. After playing we talked to some girls who play regularly and they say you have to ask non-stop for hints in order to get out.
It poured almost all night. After Exit Point we went to Soda bar with our hostel. The bar is famous for having carbonated vodka shots. The next morning we grabbed a cab to the airport and flew to Amsterdam. We then parted ways; Dave to NYC and me to London.